Having had my fill in dead generators due to bad gas during hurricane season, I went for a propane conversion. This system allows the generator to run from BBQ propane tanks. The advantage is that the propane can be stored without expiration. The system is dual fuel, so I can switch back to gasoline with a switch if I wanted to.
The mill rebuild project that I had been working on has taken too long. I would spend way too much time and money to build up a mill that would have less capability than a bridgeport. However, I learned exactly what I needed to get through this rebuild for the next machine. After months of shopping, I found a mill that was in the condition and price that seemed attractive enough to get. It is a Kondia/Clausing FV-1. This mill is a bridgeport copy from spain. However, the quality of this seems to be up to the level of a bridgeport. It seemed moderately used and had a powerfeed and DRO. Most importantly, it ran smooth and the ways were tight and smooth in all directions. The ways were also hardened. Its not perfect. I had to replace the quill spring and add a VFD. The power feed for the quill needed repair already. But its getting there and at the moment will not require a complete teardown. I want to start making chips, not repair machines.
In my quest for a definative answer to corrosion protection in the garage, I contacted a number of corrosion test facilities in the United States. Out of 5 emails, I got one response from one facility. Because the person was so gracious to provide lots of information, I have summarize the finding in my own owrds. In no way is this an endorsement – this is a summary of what was revealed:
This laboratory tested about 28 rust preventive products from a variety of manufacturers and continues to on a regular basis. Excellent performance has been recorded from the following products in long-term exposure testing in Salt Fog, Humidity and Cyclic Accelerated Corrosion Testing (all to approved US standards) when applied to cleaned, bare, cold rolled steel test panels.
Thin, “oil-like” products: WD-40, Corrosion-X, Corrosion-X Aviation, Eezox, Boeshield T9, G96 Gun Treatment
Slightly thicker products with an “apple butter” or “yogurt” consistency, yet much thinner in viscosity than “grease:” Cortec “Bullfrog” Spray, LPS-3
The above recommendations assume that the product will be applied such that a noticeable film of the product remains on the surface of the item to be protected. Some products performed better than others. In strictly a Humidity test, WD-40 was about as good as it gets — some panels exceeded 1000 hrs of exposure without red rust on the panel face. In Salt Fog tests, rust appeared about ten times faster than in humidity. Between one and two weeks, nearly all panels exposed in salt fog were seriously covered in rust, but WD-40, Bullfrog, Corrosion-X/Corrosion-X Aviation, and Eezox were less engulfed than panels coated with the other products.
Personally, I employ WD-40 and Corrosion-X Aviation at home for the “home and garage” uses which you describe in your e-mail, with application of the product(s) to the tool following each use. I use Corrosion-X Aviation exclusively to protect blued carbon steel firearms.
WD-40 contains a proprietary mineral oil cut with a proprietary solvent blend. It’s water-displacing action is what provides rust protection, IMO. Over time, as the solvent flashes off WD-40 will become a gummy, varnish-like residue, somewhat orange in color, and also IMO it is this orange residue that is sometimes confused with rust.
The issue I have with WD-40 is that it is somwhat thin in viscosity and tends to run off vertical surfaces, or be slung off from rotating machinery components due to centrifugal force. A more viscous product tends to provide more protection.
Products with molecular-thin oxygen blockers like Corrosion-X and Eezox tend to do well also. If oxygen can’t get to the metal surface, it can’t oxidize the metal. I have a particular semiauto pistol finished with a manganese phosphate that tended to develop rust in the same areas every three to four months, even using a “gun oil.” I solvent cleaned the gun oil using acetone, then applied Corrosion-X Aviation (same as Corrosion-X, except with a viscosity-building additive) every evening over the course of a week. That was 7 yrs ago, and the rust has yet to reappear.
Again, a big THANK YOU to “Scientist X” for proividing this information!